MÉXICO

Oaxaca

Mexico is not only an enormous plot of territory, it is absolutely filled with arts and crafts of every kind. Where do I even begin?

I was once again looking for a needle in a haystack, but I have been in this sticky situation before! So here I go, setting out on a path for yet another great adventure.

Oaxaca, specifically, had been calling to me for quite some time. After a little bit of research, I was drawn to the region not only for their candle making, but for their various textiles, their broad spectrum of colourful clay ceramics, their stone and woodwork, and also to learn a bit more about their ancient lineage. But if I’m being completely honest, what also drew me in was their world-class cuisine (and if I’m being even more honest, their local Mezcal).  I was finally ready to dive into my first bite of chapulines, a crunchy local ingredient we know as grasshoppers.

But I knew I’d have challenges. My ability to communicate in Spanish isn’t strong, and this was my first time curating a collection in a language I can’t speak well. And because Oaxaca is such a vast region, locating specific artists within various rural communities was difficult. 

With the help of a translator and by making connections with local people (as in so many cases, the answer or the person I needed would wander straight into my life at the moment I needed them most), I discovered that rooted in the culture is a deep understanding of nature in almost every form. 

The ancient Zapotec and the Mixtec civilizations (among other minor groups) had been flourishing in Mesoamerica long before the Spanish arrived in modern-day Mexico in 1519.

In the region of Oaxaca alone, over 50 Zapotec languages are still spoken, and four primary Zapotec tribes are tucked away along the expansive Sierra Madre de Oaxaca mountain range. 

The native population had been utilizing natural resources for a variety of lifestyle needs, elevating craftsmanship to an artistic level long before commercial requirements. Depending on the season of growth, they would use different ingredients such as leaves, flowers, fruits and bugs as natural fabric dyes. One very important local ingredient is a parasite called Cochineal, which breeds on a specific type of cactus. Once the white bugs are picked off the cactus, they are dried out, transforming into small pebbles that are then crushed using a stone mortar. Ground into a fine powder, the colour is a deep red.  But it also reacts accordingly to a variety of PH elements (such as lime juice), which alters the colour completely into a broad spectrum of colours. A more widely recognized dyeing ingredient is Indigo, which is harvested from a plant known as indigofera tinctoria. This resource has become very costly to purchase, and creates a very deep, rich blue dye. Other ingredients can be boiled or steeped like a large batch of tea, and some are fermented before boiling. The list of ingredients is long, and changes depending on the season. 

Throughout the centuries, each village grew to specialize in a particular style or type of craftsmanship. Due to the treacherous mountain ranges, their skill sets were able to remain a commodity for generations. Even today, you will still find different artisanal techniques originating from various villages within Oaxaca. For example, black clay ceramics or “Barro Negro” will be made in San Bartolo Coyotepec, where red clay ceramics or “Barro Rojo” will be made in San Marcos Tlapazola. 

What is unique about the region’s clay is that the land provides a variety of naturally occurring colours. It can vary from a natural terra cotta, to a deep red, grey or jet black. No paint is then necessary to finish the ceramic pieces once they have been fired on open flames. Each maestro or masetra will have learned ancestral techniques of ceramic making, depending on what has been passed down generationally. In some cases, they utilize a smooth precious stone to tighten the pores of the ceramics once they have been formed into their final shape. The process is tedious as they must rub the stone along the clay vigorously for quite some time in order to create a smooth finish. I loved the concept that they are transferring the healing energy of the stones into each ceramic object.

Weaving is another traditional craft of Oaxaca. Unlike in some cultures, textile weaving here was historically carried out by the men of the community. After the Spanish colonized, large wooden looms (or pedal looms) were used, as opposed to the previous back strap loom, which was used by the women of the community. Today, you will find both women and men weaving equally. Using a pedal loom can be quite a physical task, as the weaver must balance on two separate pedals while being slightly hunched over in order to thread the wool through the loom using their arms. I was able to try it out myself, and it essentially feels like doing pilates (core work) while patting your head and rubbing your stomach simultaneously! It is 100% a laborious skill. Then, to add artistic creativity to this task is yet another reason why their tapestry is so mesmerizing. Nowadays, many weavers create contemporary rug designs, but you can still find extremely intricate, traditional-style rugs that will keep your eyes busy for hours. Often their textile art will describe a story, including ancient Zapotec imagery and symbols. Once you learn the meaning of each symbol woven in, the tapestry becomes so much more significant, and even majestic. 

However, you’ll rarely see many of these products outside of Mexico. I learned that shipping rates and the risk of stolen goods make it challenging for small Mexican brands to export their wares. The consensus is that it’s easier to sell locally. I was hoping to change that (even just a little bit) by connecting with these skilled makers.

Magic is the word I would best describe this rich land. If you listen closely, it could answer many of your life’s questions. Perhaps you could call it spirituality, but all I really know is that I left Oaxaca a different person than I came.

The landscape is dry, but is a deep green, hills surround you any which way you look. The sky is almost always a sapphire blue. The nights are chilly depending on the season, and the days are dry and hot. There is a constant scent of burning fire in the air. All at once, your nose is filled with delicious smells coming from street food vendors, restaurants and homes. I have never seen so many vintage Volkswagen Beetle cars in my life; you’ll come across at least five every day. So much so that they start to become a part of the Oaxacan environment. In Centro, each building is painted a different vibrant colour, and you could eat out every meal for months on end and never visit the same restaurant twice. Not once did I experience an awful meal, coffee or cocktail during my two months. For such a small city, this was one of the most enjoyable things about it. Then, to top it all off with a plethora of art, stunning architectural design, handmade everything, fun music, and such friendly locals, I was starting to understand why people just never leave.

The moment I knew I had finally curated the collection I was looking for, I started to feel tightness in my chest. It was time to leave. 

Oaxaca had felt like a spiritual exchange. Did I go into the forest and do local psychedelic mushrooms? Sadly no, but I didn’t even need to in order to experience what I did. I opened my heart to everyone I came across, and in turn I made lifelong connections and friendships. I stepped onto the archeological pyramids at Monte Alban high above the city. I felt the soul of this ancient ground and decided to trust it and everyone in it. In return, Oaxaca gave me more than I was even looking for: clarity, friendship, and endless inspiration.

I understand that in many parts of the world, people view Mexico in a very commercial way.

They often associate the culture with generalizations such as Frida Khalo, large sombreros, margaritas and tacos, but Mexico is so deep with history and culture. They are leaders in cuisine, art, architecture and design. The world is not always a fair place, and it is no secret that Mexico has it’s set of political problems, but it is also not fair to judge a book by it’s cover or a country based solely on headlines in the news. Experience it for yourself, and I don’t mean sit by a pool at an all inclusive hotel. Integrate yourself into the true local flavours, visit the endless historical sites, go on a culinary tour, or learn how to make ancestral clay pottery. 

Here I am, sitting on the brown dirt floor under a tin roof where Doña Viviana makes her intricate floral candles outdoors. We sat in complete silence for hours as I observed her process of sculpting each flower shape out of hot beeswax. In Spanish she asked me what I was doing here in Oaxaca all alone. I told her that I was here to learn, and to follow my passion. Viviana had started to develop her skills at age 8, and now at age 74 had continued to teach her life’s passion to both her children and grandchildren. She seemed to understand my broken Spanglish when I responded, because she looked me in the eye and slowly nodded her head in recognition. She did not approve of my tattoos, but she approved of my purpose there in her house that day.

A very big thank you to our friends at Vuelta Sur for sharing both their knowledge and community with us throughout this collection.

Oaxaca Collection

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