THE ANDES
Chile
The Andes, the world’s longest mountain range, spreads across 7,000 kms of South American soil running the entire length of the continent from north to south, cutting through a total of 7 countries. In a perfect world we would love to explore it from top to bottom, but we had to start somewhere, and that somewhere was Santiago, the Capital city of Chile.
It happened to be a unique and restless time to be in Chile, as civil protests had begun only a couple months prior, resulting in a tumultuous state for the country and its people. Part of experiencing a new culture is to learn and understand life in this foreign land, riots and all, it was part of the journey.
Tear gas exploded on our doorstep and seeped through the windows. Our eyes burning from the 3rd floor apartment was an experience on its own! Filled with excitement and unease, it felt as if we were living on a film set. Troops of horses charged by as military tankers sprayed protesters with water. Fire burned from garbage bins all over the city and we found ourselves smack in the middle of the fury.
In the midst of the anarchy, we maneuvered our way through the streets to locate anything to eat, and somehow found ourselves dining at a well known wine bar named Bocanariz. To our surprise it was filled with people, all drinking amazing local wine and eating rich decadent food. The juxtaposition between the garage style door closing in on the restaurant as the riots neared, with the fabulous meal we were having made the experience even stranger. It didn’t feel like real life…and this, is when adventure truly begins.
From Santiago, we had to decide: where to next?! Flying south meant glaciers and cool winds, while flying north meant vast deserts and endless sunshine.
So, to the desert we go…
We flew an hour north to the seaside city of La Serena, picked up a car, and drove another 3 hours east into the mountains. We were in search of the darkest skies in the Southern Hemisphere, wine, and a liquor known to this region as ‘Pisco’.
You may recognize the name if you’re also a cocktail lover. The Pisco Sour is a Chilean drink made simply with Pisco, lime, sugar, and sometimes egg whites. Easy to make, and even easier to drink!
This region is known as “The Elqui Valley”, a very special place. Although it sits at the base of one of the largest deserts, these valleys have a secret of their own. Ancient underground waterways run throughout the land, allowing for a very unique climate. These intricate water systems were built by the Incas, oh some 600 years ago, which created very rich soil in this very dry land. A perfect recipe for a perfect vino. Within each valley you will see an oasis filled with deep hues of green, and if you listen carefully you can hear the rivers running just below the ground’s surface, yet all around you is nothing but dry dusty hills.
If this region wasn’t fascinating enough, it’s also known for its crystal clear skies. Astronomy lovers come from far and wide in search of nebulae, supernovas, and the mysterious black hole. Sandwiched between Argentina and the Pacific Ocean, here you can stargaze night after night while sleeping in a dome shaped tent, looking up through a clear ceiling into the dark twinkly abyss.
Five days had passed in the Elqui region, and it was time to move north once again, this time deep into the mouth of the Atacama Desert, the driest place on Earth.
Driving 5 hours to Copiapo, we found ourselves situated under what was the largest sand dune we’d ever seen. Things were less romantic here, but even more spectacular. It was vast, quiet, rugged and HOT. At the base of these giant dunes, was a paradise. Massive cacti lined some of the smaller roads, while the grand dunes stared down at you from every angle. Where were we?! This was indeed a strange and foreign land.
It was decided that we’d drive ourselves to the base of the dunes, hike up and try to catch the sunset. We’re still unsure if this was the best or the worst idea, but it thankfully all worked out in the end. Our little sedan was no match for the sand we had to overcome, and thankfully we didn’t get stuck in absolute darkness with nothing but a picnic basket filled with wine. A 30 minute hike up the dune and we were barely a quarter of the way in, but as the sun started to set it was bad judgment to walk any further into the ‘void’. The horizon lines started to blur as the colours fused together before our eyes. We sat in stillness and listened to the eerie silence. Not a being in sight. Hauntingly beautiful.
All of a sudden, a majestic fox appeared (quite literally) out of thin air. Quiet as a mouse, he moved around us in a circle, just as curious about us as we were of him. He stared at us, as we stared back, and that’s when we realized we weren't even on planet Earth anymore. So mystical was this moment that will never again be replayed. Later, the locals assured us that it was a very rare sighting, surely an omen of good luck.
Onwards and up-up-upwards we drove, this time 10 treacherous hours north, nearing the border of Bolivia.
We drove and drove and drove, witnessing nothing but shimmering mirages rising from the hot black asphalt. Nowhere to eat, nowhere to stop, we drove until exhaustion, unknowingly climbing to an altitude of 2500 meters. Passing a number of mines, this desert gets more and more industrial as you enter. The Atacama desert is known for copper mining, contributing to Chile’s rich array of exports, and although the land may seem inhospitable to many, over 1 million people live within this vast region.
Starving, sweating and dreaming of cold water we finally arrived at our destination: San Pedro de Atacama, a small town sitting at the base of a salt flat, surrounded by endless peaks of the Andes Mountain Range. The most prominent peak being Licancabur, an active volcano sitting just on the border of Bolivia. With endless adventures awaiting, it was difficult to settle on a daily itinerary. Will it be pink flamingos, a salt lake ‘float’, a trek up a volcano, or exploring an area that resembles the moon? This environment is so dry that Nasa conducts testing here, utilizing the region to mimic life on Mars.
Not realizing the altitude, there were daily adjustments we had to learn. Oxygen is entering your system at a lower rate here, so any physical activity or even a wine at dinner can really set you back (sadly!). In the Atacama they drink a traditional tea called Rica Rica, which is made from a very prickly plant, and is said to help with the altitude sickness. Although there are many different types of remedies, this plant was our personal favourite. So much so that a bundle now sits at home decorating the kitchen!
After exploring the Atacama for 7 days, it was time to start thinking about finding our way back south to Santiago. Needless to say, with a number of additional large bags, filled to the brim with beautiful handcrafted goodies.
“This environment is so dry that Nasa conducts testing here, utilizing the region to mimic life on Mars”.
Not only does Chile have fascinating geography, it has a rich history, one filled with deep Indigenous roots alongside Western Colonization, and yet they’ve still managed to preserve some ancient traditions through various forms of craftsmanship.
Although many techniques have now disappeared, there has been a resurgence of these artistic practices amongst new artists and designers, attempting to maintain their heritage. Millenia old techniques were primarily passed down through generations directly from person to person teaching, therefore becoming a link to Chile’s ancestral past. Typical handmade crafts can be found in many forms within Chile, ranging from bold coloured textiles, ceramics, basket weaving, woodwork and of course, metalwork. All throughout our journey, we searched every corner for our top finds to bring back and share.
By the end of our adventure it was Christmas, and you never get used to celebrating it under the hot sun. The locals would decorate a cactus, or string tinsel all over the place, and even though Chile felt so far away, the love and warmth of the people we met along the way made us feel at home. This is what we loved most about our journey along The Andes, the people were gracious and hospitable, even while their country was undergoing so much turmoil and political unrest. Whether it was in the middle of nowhere, or dining at a chic downtown restaurant, the experience was always the same...welcoming.
Chile exceeded our expectations with world class cuisine, delicious wines, breathtaking views, and (our personal favourite) talented artisans continuing to preserve their indigenous traditions through their craft.
